There is an unparalleled range of touring routes, adventure tracks, and coastal drives, ideal for exploring the vast spaces of WA. They take in beautiful beaches, pristine national parks and dramatic clifflands, rustic small towns and fishing villages offering fresh seafood and local produce along the way. Renting a car or campervan is straightforward in any major centre of the state, but to see the very best of WA the Aussie way, a four-wheel-drive vehicle and camping equipment are required. WA is the 4WD holiday capital of the world, with famous treks through tall forests, outback deserts, beaches, and along remote and rugged coastlines. Camping, open-air bush cooking, and sleeping under the stars are all part of the experience. Guided or ‘tag-along’ 4WD tours are also available in WA, offering safe passage into the wildest corners of the state.
The northwest is where you go for serious outback adventures. Remote tracks cut through ancient landscapes of red earth, leading to towering formations of red rock, deep gorges, cascading waterfalls, and cool freshwater oases. A primeval land of harsh, mysterious beauty, the northwest is walkabout country, haunted by prehistoric crocodiles, giant barramundi, and the spirits of wandering nomads of the dreamtime.
Broome is the last taste of civilization for those planning an expedition into the Northwest wilderness and the great Kimberley. An old pearling town, it attracted a diverse society of Malays, Japanese, Chinese and Islanders to dive and manage the local pearling industry. Having experienced the laid-back lifestyle and natural beauty of the area, many decided to make Broome their permanent home. Today, Broome is best known for blazing Indian Ocean sunsets and CableBeach, rated one of the best beaches in the world with 22 miles of pure white sand meeting a brilliant blue sea. Other Broome attractions include the ‘staircase to the moon’, a glowing natural phenomenon caused by the reflection of moonlight off tidal flats at very low tides, Chinatown, the Broome crocodile park, and 130 million year-old dinosaur footprints at Gantheaume Point. Broome restaurants provide the opportunity to sample local crocodile, barramundi, kangaroo or pearl meat.
There are fishing charters out of Broome catering for game, reef, beach and creek fishing. Offshore targets include Spanish mackerel, coral trout, red emperor, cobia and snapper. Outback adventures in fishing are rewarded with equally delicious species such as barramundi, fingermark, threadfin salmon, mangrove jack and mud crabs. Many local guides offer to cook the catch fresh over hot coals for their clients, bush-style! Boats from Broome also take expeditions out to the magnificent Rowley Shoals Marine Park, around 185 miles offshore. Some of the most spectacular diving, snorkeling and big-game fishing in the world is found here in the remote coral atolls of the Indian Ocean. Giant manta rays, humpback whales, sharks, turtles, maori wrasse, potato cod, dazzling corals and brightly colored tropical fish abound. Game fishermen catch marlin, sailfish, Spanish Mackerel, Wahoo, yellowfin, southern bluefin, and Dogtooth tuna. Cruise boats also depart from Broome to explore the incredible Kimberley coastline, on their way to Darwin. Side-trips into magnificent gorges and untouched river systems take people deep into crocodile country, to find monster barramundi, hidden oases and ancient rock art.
Above all, Broome is the gateway to the Kimberley, and the ideal staging post for outfitting and exploring the rugged and remote Northwest. Outback-style driving holidays north to picturesque Cape Leveque, or east into the rugged gorges, pass through the scorched rock formations and splendid groves of the remote Kimberley. Motorhome, camping and 4WD hire, and tagalong tours are all available to help make it happen.
Around 780 miles north of Perth, and the same distance south from Broome, is Exmouth, top of the Coral Coast region of WA and home to the world’s largest fringing coral reef, the great Ningaloo. Ningaloo is unique. Situated right alongside a continent, it is also only a few miles from the deep water off the continental shelf. It is the largest fringing reef on a continent, and the only one on the western coast of a continent. Despite its easy accessibility for the land-based, its sheer size, remoteness and strict zoning regulations protect it from overuse, overfishing or human damage. Much of it remains perfectly pristine. It has over 250 species of coral and over 450 species of fish. It is perhaps best known for larger marine species, with common sightings of dugong, manta rays, turtles and sharks. It is also the best place to see the world’s largest fish, the gentle whale sharks, which visit from late March to June each year. There are diving and snorkeling charter services that specialize in taking visitors for close encounters with whale sharks and manta rays. Accommodation options in the Exmouth and Ningaloo areas range from 5-star to backpacker lodges, caravan parks and numerous camping grounds. Most are in close proximity to snorkeling, swimming and fishing locations, and provide facilities for the great Aussie barbeque.
Around 70 miles south of Exmouth is the small township of Coral Bay. Reef life is prolific in the large lagoon here and it all starts just meters from the shore, extending across several square miles. The area is well known for its population of sea turtles, which nest on local beaches between November and February. Coral Bay has an exclusive 5-star wilderness camp and two caravan parks. Diving, snorkeling, and kayak charters, and glass bottom boats provide guided access to reef highlights. Catamaran cruises and quad bike treks are also available from the local adventure tours visitors centre. There is also a scenic coastal trail starting from the town centre, from which you may see kangaroos, emus, and native wildflowers.
The climate becomes milder further south, where warm summers and gentle winters are ideal for horticulture. Carnarvon, 150 miles south of Coral Bay (and 560 miles north of Perth), is a remote oases that sits on the Gascoyne River. Carnarvon is the regional hub of the Gascoyne region, the fruit basket of Western Australia. An enormous range of tropical and temperate fruit and vegetables is produced here, including mangoes, avocados, paw paw, peaches, papaya, custard apples, nectarines, dates and macadamia nuts. Many of the local producers participate in the Gascoyne Food Trail, a collaboration of local farms, orchards, cafes and specialty shops which sell fresh local produce directly. The Gascoyne Food Trail features visits to working plantations, Taste of the Gascoyne tours, and menus with traditional indigenous ingredients, preserves, and dried fruit products. Fresh seafood is also a highlight of trail, and direct outlets provide locally caught species such as pink snapper, coral trout, whiting, crabs, prawns and scallops. Many local producers are represented at the popular Gascoyne Growers Market in Carnarvon every Saturday morning between May and November. The Taste of the Gascoyne Festival is a showcase event for growers in the region, featuring celebrity chefs and a gala dinner.
Shark Bay is a world heritage site with an abundance of natural wonders and a unique range of flora and fauna. Like the rest of WA, it is massive. Comprising an area of around 4,000 square miles, the bay has a coastline of over 930 miles of pristine beauty, and a population of less than 1,000 people. Marine life thrives within the bay, sustained by the enormous seagrass beds which are the base of the food chain. The Wooramel Seagrass Bank is the largest seagrass field in the world, and home to 10% of the world’s population of dugongs. Populations of turtles, rays, sharks and bottlenose dolphins are common throughout the bay. There are over 300 species of fish, 230 different birds and 26 species of endangered mammals that refuge in the area. The world’s oldest organisms, stromatolites, are an attraction at Hamelin Pool. These living fossils are the earliest known form of life on earth, appearing as small rock structures that are gradually built up by a single-celled organism called cyanobacteria. At the other end of the spectrum, Humpback Whales visit the area between June and October, heading south to their breeding grounds.
Monkey Mia is undoubtedly the most popular settlement in Shark Bay, due to the friendly local pod of wild Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins that have been coming into shore to charm tourists on a daily basis for over 40 years. It is only too easy to fall under the magical spell of these healthy and happy large mammals that swim into shore to deliberately interact with people in the beautiful blue surrounds of Dolphin Beach. Monkey Mia is located 250 miles south of Exmouth and 530 miles north of Perth.
While there is resort and hotel accommodation available in the towns of Denham and Monkey Mia, the whole area is a haven for bush campers with 4WD vehicles. The Francois Peron National Park sits in the very middle of Shark Bay on the Peron Peninsula and provides spectacular views of the Bay and a multitude of bush camping opportunities. Those with the right vehicle can discover untouched beaches with striking blue waters, pure white sand and unparalleled land-based fishing for whiting, tailor (bluefish) and flathead. Shark Bay is renowned for its range of five-star fish. In the Bay there are coral trout, spangled emperor, Spanish mackerel, pink snapper and blue-bone (Baldchin) groper. The tall cliffs of Steep Point, on the southern tip of Shark Bay, provide some of the best land based game fishing in Australia, with fishermen bringing in tuna, kingfish, Spanish mackerel and sailfish.
The Houtman Abrolhos Islands are one of the world’s dream travel destinations. Around 37 miles off the WA coast from the town of Geraldton, they consist of 122 separate islands spanning 60 pristine, coral reefed miles of the Indian Ocean. Bathed by the warm Leeuwin Current that flows down from the equatorial Pacific Ocean, the waters are rich in corals, tropical fish, ocean pelagics, and rock lobster. The Abrolhos are the mainstay of the impressive WA rock lobster industry. They also have an incredible range of other animals, including reptiles, birds and mammals, and are a critical habitat for rare and unique species. There are over 90 species of sea-birds found here, making it a popular destination for bird-watchers who come to see shearwaters, terns, oyster-catchers, sandpipers, painted button-quails unique to the Abrolhos, and intimidating ospreys and white-breasted sea-eagles. The islands are also a haven for the very rare and playful Australian sea-lion.
Unless you are one of the lucky lobster fishermen who get to live here during the season, you will not find accommodation on the islands. The islands are not only a pristine marine environment and sanctuary for wildlife, they also hold a very special place in Australian history as the sites of the Batavia and Zeewijck shipwrecks, and the first European dwellings in Australia. The stories of these early Dutch shipwrecks are vivid tales of adventure, treachery, tragedy and heroics on an unimaginable scale today. The need to protect these islands have resulted in very strict regulations that include no camping or fires. However, there are boat charters, scenic flights, eco-tours, snorkeling, diving, and fishing trips available from Kalbarri and Geraldton, with operators who understand the islands and the need to care for them. Fishing services fish the waters on a very safe and sustainable scale for top-shelf prizes such as coral trout, red emperor, coral trout, sweetlip, tuna, mackerel, pink snapper and WA dhufish. Operators will clean and snap-freeze your fresh catch for you to enjoy at your leisure.
Despite being the most remote state capital on earth, Perth has everything. It is a beautiful and lively city with a warm climate, fantastic beaches, a cosmopolitan demeanor, and the Swan River drifting lazily through. Perth makes the most of its ready access to WA’s impressive fresh seafood and wine industries, with an abundance of restaurants specializing in ethnic and modern Australian menus. It has more cafés per head of population than any other Australian city. Daily visits from the ‘Fremantle Doctor’, a cool sea breeze that soothes Perth on summer afternoons, make it perfect for al fresco dining. With its large population of migrants, Perth has a colorful and diverse range of dining options, with Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Mediterranean, Greek and French restaurants. There are fine dining and Modern Australian menus and an abundance of ‘pub grub’ choices. There is no shortage of food events and festivals either. The Good food and wine show has celebrity chefs, cooking classes and wine tastings. Trade shows such as Perth Food and Beverage Show and Fine Food Perth are opportunities for those in the food and hospitality industries to see first-hand what the WA food scene has to offer. Oceanafest, an international culinary competition, is held during the Fine Food festival. The City Food and Wine Month in March, is a program of events that includes food tours, wine tasting, cooking and coffee making classes, the Butchers Picnic – a great BBQ with burger and sausage championships, and Dinner on the Dock, a fine dining outdoor feast help in the splendid surroundings of Claisebrook Cove. Also in March, at Mandurah, 45 miles south of Perth city, the annual Crab Fest celebrates the plentiful blue manna (blue swimmer) crabs that are found in this popular holiday area. Cooking demonstrations, tastings, food stalls and entertainment are part of the event, as are dishes such as chili crab, BBQ crab, crab pie, and crab omelets.
Fremantle and Rottenest Island are Perth’s favorite playgrounds. Just a short ferry ride from Perth, Rottnest Island has magnificent clear water and brilliant white sand, that combine to vividly highlight the outgrowths of coral and reef sitting around the island. Walking and cycling paths take visitors to the many secluded beaches and sights of the island, and past a great many of the island’s friendly native marsupial inhabitants, quokkas. Looking like a cross between a very small kangaroo and a cat, quokkas are prolific only the island but very rare anywhere else, with only one small colony existing on mainland Australia, and a few others on small WA islands.
Fremantle is a lively mix of historic seaside port town, fashion hot-spot, and cultural centre. Sitting 12 miles south west of Perth, at the mouth of the Swan River, it is known for its great shopping, its markets, its relaxed al fresco dining culture, and its festivals. The Fremantle Markets have grower’s stalls with fresh fruit and vegetables, local seafood, and an eclectic range of artworks, jewelry, clothing, accessories, and antiques. Fremantle hosts a Fringe Festival, a Street Arts Festival, and the Chili Festival that showcases fresh produce, chutneys, pickles, cheeses and cholocate, accompanied by WA wines, beers, live music and celebrity chef demonstrations. There is something very natural and appropriate about Fremantle’s relationship with the spicy fruit of the chili plant!
Geographe Bay is a clean, shallow body of water that stretches from the town of Bunbury, 112 miles south of Perth, to the small town of Dunsborough. Cape Naturaliste protects the peaceful bay from the wild weather of the southern Indian Ocean and the Roaring Forties, making it a very safe and popular destination for boating, swimming, holiday-making, and catching the plentiful blue swimmer crabs that abound in the bay. Like the rest of WA’s south west, the region is also famous for its fresh produce. Citrus and stone fruit, dairy, beef , and of course, seafood such as rock lobster, whiting, WA dhufish and pink snapper. The great forests of the southwest begin here, with the Tuart Forest National Park near Capel the last magnificent natural Tuart forest in the world. Jarrah forests are also found close to the holiday town of Busselton. The celebrated south west wineries also begin here. Geographe Chardonnay, Semillon, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon have a very fine reputation internationally.
Fine wine is probably what Margaret River is best known for. There are over 80 wineries in the Margaret River region, and they produce a very high proportion of Australia’s best wines. The consistent climate is moderated by cool ocean breezes and the warm Leeuwin Current nearby, which combine to create a mild Mediterranean climate without winter frosts or summer heat waves, perfectly suited to growing grapes. Weathering of the ancient granite base has left dominant soils of granite gravel loam, which is permeable and promotes rapid leaching of water, deep vine roots, and warmth. The result is low yielding vines with intensely flavored fruit, and outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and rich Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends. The soils have also produced magnificent forests of Jarrah, Marri and Karri giants. Some of the tallest trees in the world watch over a harmony of meandering creeks, peaceful groves, pristine bushland and wildflowers.
The nearby coastline is constantly battered by some of the best surf in the world. Rugged limestone cliffs and headland is broken up occasionally by peaceful sheltered bays of white sand and clear water. Surfers from around the world come to experience the perfect beaches and clean, consistent Margaret River breaks between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. The combination of natural attractions and fine wine has inspired a creative energy that permeates all aspects of life in the Margaret River region. The quality of local arts and crafts and a keen appreciation for the natural environment is reflected in the high standard of produce here. Cheeses, chocolates, pickles, dried fruit, chutneys and preserves all proudly display the prestigious Margaret River tag. Food and wine tours are a big attraction. Wine tasting, the chocolate factory, olive groves, gourmet food shops, cooking classes and cellar doors are very popular. Restaurants and cafes also have high standards, often supplying first class local seafood matched with premium local wines. For the seafood lover, a trip to a marron farm is a must. Marron are regarded as the tastiest crayfish in the world. A large freshwater species unique to the Margaret River region, they have a texture much like lobster but with a sweeter, cleaner taste.
The lush bushland and charming forests continue further south towards the Southern Ocean. Augusta is an old timber town 91 miles southwest of Bunbury, which sits close to the very corner of the continent, near Cape Leeuwin. The Cape straddles two mighty oceans, with spectacular cliffs and commanding views of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park to the north, and the calm waters of Flinders Bay to the east. An explorers paradise, there are tall timber forests, secluded beaches, majestic limestone caves, and bushland riverways to investigate at your leisure or with guides. This is one of the best places in the world to view whales, with southern right and humpback whales appearing off the coast from May to September. Bushwalking is superb, with trails throughout the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, and the Cape to Cape Trail extending the full (140km) of rugged coastline between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. There are many saltwater and freshwater fishing options, and in the quiet inland waters, the chance of testing your bushcraft skills by snaring a mighty marron.
Further travel along the 150 miles of Southern Ocean coastline to the southwest is extremely difficult due to the lack of maintained roadways in this remote quarter. Although a serious impediment for the traditional vehicle, it is fantastic news for the adventurous and skilled 4WD enthusiast, as there are tracks in the 450 square miles of D’Entrecasteaux National Park that lead to untouched white beaches perfect for swimming, surfing, fishing and beachcombing. Inland highways have side tracks that run through more magnificent forests, shaded groves lush with ferns and shrubs, and secluded valleys. Vineyards appear now and then on rolling hillsides, and small farms and townships create laid-back communities that maintain a proud resilience to the pressures of the modern world. The timber town of Pemberton is surrounded by tall Karri forest in every direction. ‘Climbing trees’ 250 feet high were used as fire lookouts here in the 30s and 40s, and still deliver a brilliant view of the surrounding landscape. The ‘Valley of the Giants’ near Walpole is a forest of awesome red Tingle trees. Visitors are quietly humbled as they wander through it on the Ancient Empire Boardwalk, and then have their spirits lifted by the breathtaking Tree Top Walk, a 1400 foot long award-winning canopy walk 130 feet from the ground. The old whaling town of Albany, (250 miles from Perth via the inland route, and 270 miles from Margaret River), is another remote WA holiday destination. Albany sits on magnificent King George Sound, and offers more amazing ocean views, rugged cliffs and headland trails, and yet more faultless long white beaches.
Events in the southwest highlight the creativity inspired by the region’s wealth of natural
attractions. Late summer to early Autumn is the festival season. Arts, crafts, gourmet food and wine are essential components of any festival. Albany’s Taste Great Southern Festival in late February is a series of events that focus on the food and wine of surrounding local centers. In contrast, Albany’s Festival of the Sea in early April has more of a focus on the seafood of the region. The Augusta River Festival, held in late February, is a colorful town carnival with food stalls, fireworks, entertainment, and a traditional wine stomp. Geographe Bay Race Week, also in late February, is the largest sailing regatta in WA, and also includes live music, entertainment and buskers. The Shore Leave Lunch and Ladies Lunch are showcase events of the festival. The huge success of Wine Tourism guarantees that there is always a food and wine event on around Margaret River. The Margaret River Wine Region Festival brings many of the main attractions together, including cooking master classes with world famous chefs and food authors, premium wine tastings, film festivals, art exhibitions, the Street Fiesta, and Leeuwin Estate’s legendary concert spectacular featuring performers such as Dianna Ross, Shirley Bassey, Dionne Warwick, George Benson, Jack Johnson, Chris Isaak, and The London Philharmonic Orchestra.
Seafood Trails 